Final Assembly #1

Building the Seat Plug #4

Engine Reassembly #8

I used a piece of square tubing wrapped in a towel to keep the cylinder
header up off of the cylinders so I could fish the cam chain through.

Cylinder head on and cam chain fished through.

The cylinder head nuts looked pretty rough compared
to the newly painted engine.

A quick trip to the buffer and they look pretty sharp.

Getting ready to install the master link.  It took a few tries to get the chain
in position and the cams lined up properly.  I tied a piece of wire to the end
of the chain to pull it through the head from the intake side to the exhaust.

Master link installed.

Cam chain tensioner installed.

Adjusting the valve clearances actually went pretty easy.  I think it helped
going into it knowing it was going to take a little while and I just took my
my time with it.

It's a thing of beauty.  I can't wait to see what it looks like in the frame.

Another shot of the engine.

Engine Reassembly #7

I figured it would be easier to install the cams and cam covers with the head
separated from the rest of the engine so that I could move it around as
necessary.  The intake cam went in fairly easy.

The exhaust cam is a little trickier to position.

Here is a shot of the points housing after bead blasting and painting.

New points and wiring.

Another shot of the points housing.  I replaced the grommet as well.

I put together a stand for the engine to support it and keep it stable for the
rest of the assembly.

Getting ready to install the cylinder head.  I zip-tied rolls of tape to each
end of the cam chain on the off chance it started to slip.

Engine Reassembly #6

The cylinder head masked off and ready for paint.  This thing was a pain in
the ass to tape off.

Primed.

Painted.

Reassembly started with the cam chain rollers.

The valves looked terrible.

I taped off the stems and gave each one a quick bead blasting.  Good as new.

Under all of the carbon the valves were in good shape but since it had been
sitting for so long I figured it would be a good idea to lap them.

The valve seat after lapping.

The valve bits and torsion bars were pretty easy to install.

I notched out a piece of pipe to assist in twisting the torsion bars into
position.  I've seen a lot of people recommend cutting a notch out of a
socket to accomplish the same thing but scrap pipe was a lot easier to
part with than a socket.  Easier to cut and grind I would assume too.